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Birkin and Kelly bags. While Dior long ago was celebrated for its "New Look," its current designer, John Galliano, has pushed the house far, far from those beginnings until the brand is now known as the place where Galliano engages in hyperbole.As designers debut their fall 2007 collections here, only Chanel and YSL exist as clothing brands that self consciously hold on to their past as a base from which to move into the future.At Chanel, where Karl Lagerfeld has been the designer for 24 years, each season revolves around the little tweed suit that Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel created and that epitomizes the house. But the camellia details, the little black dresses and the quilted handbags which also came from the imagination of the house's founder, who died in 1971 continue to be nurtured and reinvented by Lagerfeld. The brand is defined by Mademoiselle Chanel's rules, but it isn't constrained by them.At YSL, where Stefano Pilati has held the creative reins for two years, recent seasons have been a dizzying whirlwind through the house's archives. It has been a struggle with results occasionally bumbling or pretentious. The brand's founder and namesake was probably best known for his sleek, lady's tuxedo, known as "le smoking." His other contributions to fashion cannot be summed up so succinctly. But in effect, the house brought ease, independence and strength to a woman's wardrobe. Monsieur Saint Laurent, who retired about five years ago, continues to loom over the house, nearly paralyzing his successors.Friday morning, Lagerfeld adroitly reshuffled the components that define Chanel and presented a lighthearted collection of brightly colored tweed jackets some with tiny gumball beads dangling from the hem, novelty sweaters with penguins woven into them, nubby cardigans decorated with buttons and pins and little black dresses sweetened with bows and lace.Lagerfeld presented the collection in a setting that evoked a frozen pond dusted with snow. Gleaming white light bounced off the "icy" stage, creating a kind of snow blindness that left the audience squinting to see the models. Afterward, you could have used a shot of Botox to unfurrow your brow, but Lagerfeld had