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pink prada sunglasses Westerners: a shop that sells just pickled vegetables, and one that offers various kinds of fish paste.It's interesting to simply wander the residential alleys, where the unpaved streets are crowded with meticulously cared for potted plants in front of small homes tightly packed together. You'll also find yourself stumbling upon some of the over 100 temples in the Yanesen area, with 73 in Yanaka alone.To explore the rest of the neighbourhood from Yanaka Ginza, you may pick up a detailed tourist map for 300 yen, but any of the free English neighbourhood maps you can find around town will do just as well. Turn right at the end of the shopping street and you'll find a tourist information centre with many maps and brochures though its opening hours are somewhat irregular, which can also arrange guided tours by reservation.ART AND CRAFTSThis unassuming, sometimes shabby neighbourhood has been a centre of the arts for centuries, and still supports both the old and new. Many traditional crafts are still practiced and can even be seen in action. "There are a lot of open workshops," says West, who also holds open studio hours where you can watch him paint. "You'll walk by the tatami maker, the silversmith, and can look into the window and see them doing that."Only nine stores remain in all of Japan that supply the traditional pigments, ground from precious stones, that West paints with, and four of them are in Yanaka. Contemporary art galleries also exist, some in repurposed buildings such as an old public bathhouse and a pawnshop built in 1847.BREAK FROM THE BUSTLEAnother way that Yanaka is unlike the rest of Tokyo is that the streets are quiet at night, so it's best visited in the daytime. But this is part of its charm and another reason to come. Another Westerner who's lived here for decades, Dennis Pasche, says, "It's good for relaxing to remove stress, to decompress."Pasche has built a Swiss chalet in Yanaka on what he says is the highest point in Tokyo, but despite this re creation of something of his native Switzerland, he's passionate about his adopted home."In Tokyo, you can find whatever you want," he says. "In Shinjuki, Roppongi, Shibuya, you find the Western