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prada tie syllables Yanaka, Nezu, and Sendagi. They are part of the shitamachi or old downtown district of Tokyo. Yanaka has a mid 20th century vibe uncommon in Tokyo, which was mostly destroyed twice in the 20th century by earthquake and war. Small one product shops that have sold rice crackers or traditional handicrafts for generations co exist with modern art galleries and young bakers of artisanal European breads, set on wandering streets and alleys with a low, human scale very unlike the high rises of familiar Tokyo neighbourhoods like Shinjuku and Shibuya.SHOP LOCALYanaka has few of the big franchise stores, often Western, that you see in the rest of the Tokyo. "People live above their businesses," says West, an American artist. "None of this has a big corporation behind it. Pretty much the individuals who run them are there."The easiest place to start exploring is the old Yanaka Ginza shopping street, a short walk from Nippori Station. As you leave the station you'll pass Yanaka Cemetery, worth a visit for the interesting gnarled cherry trees even when they're not in flower. There you may have your first encounter with the wandering cats that are mascots of the neighbourhood.Continue down the hill from the station and you'll come to a broad staircase leading down to Yanaka Ginza, where the visitor can find old and new crafts, old and new food, and souvenirs and gifts. A Western style bakery that boasts of an oven made with stone from Mount Fuji stands next to a shop that sells traditional Japanese sweets. There's a shop entirely devoted to items handcrafted from bamboo, a tiny stall where you can get T shirts custom printed with illustrations of various animals, and a shop that sells traditional wooden and straw rope sandals.You'll see the feline motif throughout, from a modern gift shop of cat themed gifts to a shop that sells the traditional bean paste filled cakes usually made in the shape of a fish, but here, of course, in the form of a cat. Yanaka Ginza sells everything practical that locals could need. Some of it is familiar: a drugstore, small grocery, fish shop, butcher, and clothing and handbags from the cheap to the fashionable. Others are more unusual to