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prada wallet pink Index."They don't publish their numbers, they don't publish their figures and they don't talk about it," Thomas said. "It's smart business. They can have lean seasons, even lean years and nobody knows. They play the long game, which they do very well."Sales rose 26% in 2011, according to the filing, the best growth rate among its five peers for that year. The label has positioned itself in the top end of the luxury segment, with a winter line up that includes US$5,000 dresses and US$4,000 quilted handbags. Perfume and cosmetics sales especially the No. 5 scent remain Chanel's biggest business, and probably represent around 55% of its revenue, according to David Wu, a luxury goods analyst at Telsey Advisory Group in New York.A 30 milliliter bottle of the perfume costs 220 pounds US$350 at the Chanel boutique in London's Harrods department store. The scent was a favourite of Marilyn Monroe, who was asked by a journalist in 1952 what she wore to bed."Nothing but a few drops of Chanel No. 5," she said, according to Mazzeo."Chanel No. 5 remains one of the company's flagship products and continues to capture a leading share position in the overall fragrance market," Wu said. "It's one of the huge money makers at Chanel."The company had an Ebitda margin of 24% in 2011, beating L'Oreal's 19%, Estee Lauder's 17% and Kering's 23%. LVMH's margin was 26% and Prada was the top performer with 29%.The family business opened in 1923, when Theophile Bader, owner of French department store Galeries Lafayette, introduced perfume manufacturers Paul and Pierre Wertheimer to designer Gabrielle Chanel.Known as Coco, Chanel was looking for ways to expand sales of her No. 5 fragrance that she'd begun selling in 1921, 11 years after her first boutique opened in Paris.Les Parfums Chanel was established on April 4, 1924, with the Wertheimers taking a 70% interest, Bader 20% and Chanel the remainder, according to Mazzeo.The scent's success soured relations between Chanel and the Wertheimers, and when the Jewish brothers fled Paris in 1940 as German troops advanced on the city, Chanel attempted to take control of the business.She wrote to the Nazi occupiers in 1941, according to Mazzeo, arguing