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least two decades, the demand for Kelly bags was on the wane, says Tom Raney, a retail consultant, but five years ago young women began buying them secondhand. "It was," according to Raney, "the retro trend" that spurred the imitation bag makers, which, in turn, increased demand for the originals.Now, new Kelly bags are so popular, says Valerie Lickman of the Hermes New York office, that the Paris workrooms of Hermes have two years of back orders for the smallest version of the Kelly bag in black calfskin $2,750.The Louis Vuitton "Speedy" made its debut in 1959. Made of a specially coated dark brown fabric that feels like vinyl, it has an interlocking \o7 L V\f7 print and comes in four different sizes, the most popular being 12 inch at $280.The "Speedy" doesn't have the royal backing of the Kelly bag. It's roots are more common. According to Ron Michaels the manager of the Beverly Hills Vuitton shop, it is the most popular seller because it is one of the oldest, most recognizable and least expensive items in the Vuitton line. Because of its comparatively low price, it appeals to an "entry level customer," one who will spend $250 on a purse but not $1,000.The Chanel bag is a newcomer. It showed up on the fashion scene shortly after Karl Lagerfeld began designing the Chanel ready to wear line in 1983 and according to a Chanel spokesperson Tracy Lawrence "it hit the big time in 1987."How does a pocketbook start down the path to glory?The first women to embrace an item, and whose opinions count for something, are the fashion forecasters editors, models, designers and their publicists. Celebrities and first ladies of power and politics are the next to own one. Then the herd begins to stampede, and the savvy imitators start churning out the look alikes. If the original bag continues to sell at $1,000 while the imitations are selling at the discount stores for under $20, a status bag is born."When a bag is hot, it doesn't matter that there are less expensive versions," says Karen Katz of Neiman Marcus. "The status customer feels good that she can buy it at its original price."There are many handbag manufacturers hungry to get on this fashionable gravy train. Katz considers Prada one