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cursory, when an item isn't in pristine condition you may be able to find a fuller explanation online for the auctioneer's rating. Plus, you can zoom in on an item closer than the naked eye can see.Ponder color. For the first Birkin most people want something they can live in that they can wear with jeans, with a suit, or carry on an airplane. So the most practical choice is a neutral, like black, gray, gold or brown. If you can afford a second bag, make it one of the vivid colors that Herm does so well, like bright red, blue or "orange H" a company signature color. Hardware, which is a matter of a personal preference, not a matter of value, comes in plated gold or plated palladium in the platinum family.Choose durable leather. Avoid Swift called Gulliver in earlier versions, which scratches easily and doesn't hold its shape. The most popular leathers are Clemence and Togo, which are textured. Of the two, Togo holds its shape better. Ardennes, discontinued around 1999 and Fjord, still being used, are also very strong and durable. All four of these are scratch resistant and water resistant. Calfbox and Bernia, two heritage Herm leathers, develop an attractive patina, but will scratch and darken over time.Decide on a price. Figure out the maximum you can afford, factoring in the 25% buyer's premium that you will have to pay the auction house. No matter how much you want the bag, don't exceed that number.Bid live. You don't necessarily have to be in the room most people aren't. You can also bid live over the phone or online which is increasingly how people participate in auctions.Don't jump right in. Let everyone else make their bids. Wait for a pregnant pause in the bidding before you place yours. Even if someone outbids you, stick to your maximum.Keep options open. The biggest mistake people without a lot of auction experience make is falling in love with the bag, Rubinger says. "When you have your heart set on one bag, you are going to bid too high." Having other options helps you keep to your maximum. If your first choice goes for more than you were willing to spend, you will have a backup.Of course, things may not come up in the order in which they interest you.