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motor coach sales 110,000 inhabitants to 157,000 by 2031, the Territory's capital is enticing young people from all over Australia and immigrants from across the world. Perched on a thumb of land protruding into Darwin Harbour, the city is a clean and compact grid of low rise buildings and lush parkland.In the streets, elegant native palms and tall trees rival corrugated sheet awnings as sunshades. There are few cars, no traffic hassles and dress is casual. One morning in a downtown cafe I saw a man wearing a white shirt and tie, long pants and no shoes. Reacting to my surprise, a waiter quipped: "I reckon he's going for a job interview, otherwise he wouldn't be wearing a tie." Yeah, right.Shoppers even in downtown Smith Street Mall are so sparse you'd need a drover's dog to round them up for a store sale. But if you must rub shoulders with fellow consumers, head down to the busy Mindil Beach Sunset Market, which offers superb sunsets as well as great multi cultural food and music. Another excellent market is the bustling Saturday Parap Market.Running parallel with Mitchell Street is The Esplanade, which is lined with major hotels fronting onto Darwin harbour. The huge harbour looks innocent enough but yields up to 200 crocs each year, tending to put even backpackers off impromptu skinny dipping. At dusk, when the blue of Darwin harbour softens in the twilight and the lush strip fringing the Esplanade is more welcoming than in the heat of day, you can sit beneath the trees and listen to families of aborigines playing music and spinning yarns. That's homely.Minutes away from the port, at the other end of town,