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coach bags us Dolphin hotels, took the cake with a monumental pink and yellow stucco affair that incorporated mythological design elements to reflect the winery's name, Clos Pegase. The Crete inspired architectural whimsy leaves an orange tiled portico at the main entrance open to the sky, so that when it rains, we are reminded of how Pegasus' hooves released the Spring of the Muses from Mount Helicon, which watered the gods' vines and transformed nine of Zeus' daughters into the muses. Adding some levity to the massive winery are the negative spaces: elongated semicircle cutouts and geometrical forms carved out of the walls. Making this into the ultimate postmodern playground, modern works by Henry Moore, Jean Dubuffet, Robert Morris, Francis Bacon and others are all jumbled up with fussy, serpentine altar columns from 17th and 18th century France and Spain. Meanwhile, visual references to Bacchus are everywhere. Topping it all off is Michael Scranton's hammered steel sculpture Wrecking Ball, forever tempting fate as it remains poised to obliterate the Reserve Room. And that's where modernity and the fear of total destruction come back to bite us. But relax. On the way out, the giant bronze Thumb by C reminds us that, hey, everything's still hunky dory. Or is it? Clos Pegase Winery, 1060 Dunaweal Lane, Calistoga. Open daily, 10:30am to 5pm. Free tours at 11am and 2pm. 707.942.4981. Talking Heads is not oldies. I'm talking about the doo wop, she bop tunes that've been long dropped from the airwaves by the sky gods of Clear Channel who could no longer wedge the '50s into their marketing pie charts. But late one