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gimmicks common in retailing.''People should never pay full price,'' Goldstein said. ''You should be conscious of value and of getting your money's worth.''Retailers' ploys are perhaps easiest to spot in the apparel, home furnishing and publishing industries. There, keystoning the practice of marking up products to double their wholesale cost is a common way to arrive at retail prices. Keystoning originated in the jewelry industry, although the term is widely used in most retail categories.For many retailers, though, keystoning is only the beginning. Some will mark up items to three times the wholesale cost and mark them down to keystone when the items go on sale, Goldstein said.In recent years, though, various types of discounters off price stores, factory stores and close out operations have been able to undercut department and specialty store prices.''The good news for apparel shoppers is that sharp competition is yielding many opportunities for good buys on high quality merchandise,'' Goldstein wrote in her 1986 book, Secrets from the Underground Shopper.''The bad news is that shoppers continue to be bombarded with tricks, gimmicks and outright fraud. Consumers must be aware of the pitfalls of the fashion industry and must avoid having the wool literally pulled over their eyes.''According to the National Retail Merchants Association, a trade group in New York, every $100 spent on an article of women's clothing yields $52.30 gross profit for the full price retailer. And $100 spent on women's accessories such as scarves or handbags yields $53.70 gross profit.Men's and boys' apparel and accessories have lower mark ons, which is a retailer's term to describe the percentage of the retail cost that is profit. Clothing for men and boys has a 51.5 percent average mark on or $51.50 for every $100 spent while home furnishings bear a 45.6 percent mark on.According to Goldstein's Secrets, stores make their largest profits in three ways: through private label merchandise made with the store's licensed name, cheaply made imported items and obscure clothing lines that no one else sells. Perhaps the highest markups of all are at prestigious department stores where