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courtyard of Somerset House to watch skaters in front of the Tiffany Co. Christmas tree.The No. 11 bus is the best route in London for some must see sights. Hop on at Victoria and pass St. Paul's Cathedral, where the finest boys choir in England joins in festive services throughout December. Or try Sloane Square's Holy Trinity for a Christmas classical concert on Dec. 16 with champagne and canaps for $30 a ticket. Walking back, I drop into Temple Church, where I'm surprisingly alone. Just me and my overactiveDa Vinci Code imagination and 10 eerily lifelike effigies of the Knights Templar. I'm out of there pretty quick.After all that, I'm ready for my hotel. Barkston Gardens, in a quiet square across from Earl's Court Tube station, is a gem that I discovered online for around $100 a night. Its corridors might be tired, but a dapper matre d' wearing a tuxedo and bow tie seats me for my breakfast of cereal, canned apricots and abysmal coffee.Where to today? Hyde Park's Winter Wonderland for Bavarian sausage and mulled wine. I peruse arts and crafts stalls for quirky Christmas gifts. My sense of smell is on overdrive from waffles, bratwurst and gingerbread, and I plod around soaking up the festive spirit until I've had enough of Handel'sJoy to the World competing with Slade'sI escape deeper into the quiet of the park. The last golden leaves of autumn cling to trees. Dog walkers and joggers pass me, and horseback riders promenade the eight kilometres of bridleway. Nice life. A lone swan glides down the centre of the mirror like Serpentine lake. I turn back to stare at the new and swanky London address of One Hyde Park, and try to imagine the person who recently bought one of its penthouses for a cool 140 million $220 million. Farther on, where Hyde Park joins Kensington Palace Gardens, I stroll through the private, "no cameras allowed" Billionaires Row, home to some foreign embassies and Europe's richest man.Where else can I possibly go after that but Harrods, the store that redefines amazing? Tourists photograph the Peter Pan themed window displays a profuse floating fantasy and feast for your inner child. Inside, I bypass the Egyptian Room selling stuff I can't