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the diagonal crossover of tartan fabric that Scots band across their chests was evoked when Lagerfeld dropped the collar off one shoulder.Where does the 79 year old find the energy to produce such new ideas season upon season?Van Herpen used state of the art technology to stage a performance, where models writhed against each other clad in dark, shimmering dresses with touch sensitive electronic chips inside sinewy ribs on the material.Caressing each other in scenes that could have been lifted from a Lynch film, the models' touches sent out audio signals to the DJ booth in the club, producing a macabre electronic musical aria.The atmosphere nicely complemented the darkness of the looks, which featured a great techno fabric on a cropped jacket and cross over dress that gave off a watery, metallic sheen.A black skeletal sheath made of leather had the dark feel of her exaggerated couture creations.With only 16 looks on display, next time it would be nice to see the talented designer broaden her repertoire with a larger collection.Combative metal helmets, neck clasps and leather straps clashed with bright ethnic patterns in Sarah Burton's show for Alexander McQueen that, while bold, moved the house in a slightly more wearable direction away from the theatrical excess of last season.On a minimal, geometric runway the first black looks of the 32 piece strong collection, could have been worn by warrior queen Boudica with features such as a leather harness, a thick padded leather coat and an aggressive red layered skirt.But the looks softened, as did the colors, as the collection progressed.A series of