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Arduino 3 steps further. (It has not been with out a lot of difficulty, due to lack of feed back, as this has been an ongoing project for 3 months.) 1. Programming from the Serial I/O port of my desktop laptop; 2 USB Programming via USBtinyISP Pocket Programmer from Adafruit from my desktop laptop; 3. Interface board for the 8 pin dip chips ATtiny series using the USB Programmer from step 2. I hope to have my first instructable on these items posted shortly. Follow that guide, it says how to build a cheap, easy to build programmer out of parts that you should easily be able to get a hold of. You do need a parallel port on your PC, and I think you have to set it into a certain mode (in the BIOS), took a little while to get it working but I have used this to flash the Arduino bootloader on plenty of "plain" AVR chips.I wanted to comment on the power supply and filter capacitor issues you mentioned early on. Often you will see, and especially with power regulator chips, the need for two capacitors, such as a 100 uF capacitor and a 0.1 uF capacitor. You may ask "why do I need 100.01 uF of capacitance?" This is a reasonable question, but the answer requires more of an explanation. The short version is that the 0.1 uF is good for bypassing the RF energy that you are trying to get rid of. The 100 uF is good for bypassing the lower frequency energy that you are trying to get rid of. Neither is good at doing both things, so you need both.The moral of the story is that it's critically important to your success that you follow the data sheet's recommendations and also pay attention to what you see in the